Hello;
Thank you to those who followed the blog during its inception; your attention helped to motivate me. If anyone should ever consider bicycle touring as a way to travel there is no doubt in my mind that it is one of the best modes of travel I have experienced. I will be happy to return the favour of an audience during your adventure. My advice is to pack as lightly as you can and be resourceful. Use social networks such as warmshowers.org or couchsurfing.org. Strangers who can open their homes to travellers are often the type of people you want to meet while on the road. On the next bicycle adventure I'd like to be more aware of the route and avoid roads that have no shoulder, using the google street mapping program to view the route beforehand.
Thomas sent me an email on January 28 from which I feel compelled to quote the last sentence:
"Does it feel like it has been too long since we were biking, can you believe that it will be three months since we left Vegas in a couple of days?"
In time the simplistic routine Thomas and I temporarily lived by has become a cherished memory. The motto we toured with was; bicycle, eat, sleep. I miss the freedom that lies in such a lifestyle. Concerns for the long-term were limited and the all encompassing act of riding over 3500 km consumed my focus. I am not any more set upon a path for the future now than I was while cycling, but it was much easier to ignore the future when I thought I was 'on vacation'. It was uplifting to engage in the simple act of travel, although obviously there were many difficulties while cycling. After we broke in our saddles, we often found ourselves tired and sore at the end of any day. I had never before experienced numbness in my groin due to consecutive hours on my bike; I'm glad it wasn't permanent and would quickly go away after dismounting. There was roadkill spotted daily and it is strange to think that a white line is all that separated us from the myriad of cars that raced by. The best roads to ride were ones where no vehicles were present as it only compounds the danger of being hit to cycle near cars travelling at highway speeds. We had not planned the trip extensively and simply drew a line southbound along a succesion of maps that led us through National Parks with the final destination of Vegas. The flexibility of the plan made both Thomas and I comfortable to
take suggestions from those willing to offer advice.
With the demands of reality we have both transitioned onwards in our lives; complexities arise out of a changing set of daily values. What was temporarily quite satisfying is no longer an option. Thomas has returned to work at the Aquatic Centre in Jasper and I have begun to adopt a new community on Salt Spring Island. Often while riding the goal was simple: keep pushing until Las Vegas. In the months following the trip I often find myself wondering what I want next. As I consider it from different frames of mind, the answer remains the same: I am a free spirit. Plans happen to me and I am not capable of making plans that I adhere to. Thank you Thomas for coming up with a plan and commiting to it. I would never have done this without your influence.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Last day in U.S.A.?
So I failed today's competency test. I was booked for a ferry ride directly to Victoria from Seattle and I overslept, not waking up at my alarm or even becoming aware of the time until 10 minutes after the boat had departed. Tomorrow is now going to be the day of return to Canada. Great, all the more time to bike circles around the city and try to find something of interest.
Todays stops of interest were the Volunteer Conservatory and the Central Library. Both fascinating in their own rights. The Conservatory had displays of Chrysanthemums, cacti, and ancients (plants that have existed for a very long time). The Library is a modern structure with an overhanging roof and walls of interlaced steel and glass. Very aesthetically pleasing, especially the views of downtown from the top floor.
Todays stops of interest were the Volunteer Conservatory and the Central Library. Both fascinating in their own rights. The Conservatory had displays of Chrysanthemums, cacti, and ancients (plants that have existed for a very long time). The Library is a modern structure with an overhanging roof and walls of interlaced steel and glass. Very aesthetically pleasing, especially the views of downtown from the top floor.
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Day 74 - Seattle, Washington
Hey Dear Reader!
This will be one of the last posts of the blog due to Thomas arriving in B.C. today after riding the train from L.A. to Seattle and taking the Clipper ferry to Victoria. I am hot on his heels after arriving in Seattle myself this evening. I am checked into the Green Tortoise Hostel and was given a free spaghetti and meatball dinner. A welcome surprise after nearly twenty-one hours of train travel.
To pick up where I left off last, I went skiing with Chris and Courtnie Tuesday morning after nearly a foot of snow fell on Mammoth Lakes through the night. He works at Mammoth Sporting Goods, where I met him, and had no problems grabbing a pair of rental ski's, boots and poles to prepare me for a short bootpack up one of his favorite runs on the unopened Mammoth mountain. I had not forgotten how to ski and cranked some delightful turns in the thin layer of powder. An awesome way to share some of the stoke felt by the locals. I packed up the next day and was pleasantly surprised to see the snow was only sticking in the high elevation town. At soon as I hit the highway the ground was bare and cycling was comfortable in the cool air with warm sunshine on my back.
Leaving Mammoth I rode to Bridgeport; infamous for its uniquely cold climate. The valley somehow creates a cold trap and this town is often the coldest in the country. I met Joanne the bartender that evening, at the Sportsmens bar while quenching my thirst after a good day of riding. Upon asking her about good places to camp she was able to find two locals, Ryan and James, who were willing hosts for a couchsurfer. They thought I was unprepared for the cold and were kind enough to offer their home to me in the hopes that I wouldn't be uncomfortable in the great outdoors. After being accommodated for two nights in Mammoth I was again lucky to be put up by these nice guys. It was certainly cold enough to warrant going to a new acquaintance's home to sleep by a woodstove.
Even better was going to the nearby Travertine hotsprings in the morning. It was undeveloped and therefore free and virtually empty of anyone else. With an assortment of small pools it was wonderful to get away from anyone else and take in the mountain views while soaking.
Onwards from Bridgeport I visited another hotsprings, Walley's, near the community of Minden. This was of the developed kind but was well worth the admission due to the cold of eastern California near Lake Tahoe. Camping that night was quite tolerable in comparison with Bridgeport's overnight lows, but frosty.
I had heard that Reno, only a day's ride north, had a train service going to Sacramento, meaning that I could skip a gruelling climb up the Kingsbury grade to begin crossing the Sierra Nevada range without having to ride it. If you saw the Kingsbury grade I have no doubt you would have done the same. That was a no-fun uphill.
Back in Nevada again, I visited Reno, a city much like Las Vegas. Reno is a smaller, down-sized version of Las Vegas, but it has the same glittering repulsion that will keep me away from Nevada for a very long time. Casinos require sunglasses, always.
After my hotel stay in Reno I was up early and ready to go for a train ride. Of course the train was an hour late, so I opted to jump on the bus, due to it being cheaper, departing earlier and taking less time to cross the same distance. Time warp, thousands of pedal strokes flashed before my eyes and 'whump!', the warm air of Sacramento hit me with a humidity I hadn't felt in a long time. Visions of high passes covered in snow melted from memory as I broke into a sweat, off with the thermal layers!
Sitting by the Sacramento river I contemplated a convoluted array of emotions. I realized that I was homesick but not in the common interpretation of the word. I was sick of being leered at by Americans due to my accent and longed to be in Canada, where I don't speak self-consciously. Long over-stressed vowels seem to have become an American stereotype of Canadians. I still can't even hear the difference.
So it is not home that I crave, to the point is that I don't want to spend more time in the U.S.A.
This will be one of the last posts of the blog due to Thomas arriving in B.C. today after riding the train from L.A. to Seattle and taking the Clipper ferry to Victoria. I am hot on his heels after arriving in Seattle myself this evening. I am checked into the Green Tortoise Hostel and was given a free spaghetti and meatball dinner. A welcome surprise after nearly twenty-one hours of train travel.
To pick up where I left off last, I went skiing with Chris and Courtnie Tuesday morning after nearly a foot of snow fell on Mammoth Lakes through the night. He works at Mammoth Sporting Goods, where I met him, and had no problems grabbing a pair of rental ski's, boots and poles to prepare me for a short bootpack up one of his favorite runs on the unopened Mammoth mountain. I had not forgotten how to ski and cranked some delightful turns in the thin layer of powder. An awesome way to share some of the stoke felt by the locals. I packed up the next day and was pleasantly surprised to see the snow was only sticking in the high elevation town. At soon as I hit the highway the ground was bare and cycling was comfortable in the cool air with warm sunshine on my back.
Leaving Mammoth I rode to Bridgeport; infamous for its uniquely cold climate. The valley somehow creates a cold trap and this town is often the coldest in the country. I met Joanne the bartender that evening, at the Sportsmens bar while quenching my thirst after a good day of riding. Upon asking her about good places to camp she was able to find two locals, Ryan and James, who were willing hosts for a couchsurfer. They thought I was unprepared for the cold and were kind enough to offer their home to me in the hopes that I wouldn't be uncomfortable in the great outdoors. After being accommodated for two nights in Mammoth I was again lucky to be put up by these nice guys. It was certainly cold enough to warrant going to a new acquaintance's home to sleep by a woodstove.
Even better was going to the nearby Travertine hotsprings in the morning. It was undeveloped and therefore free and virtually empty of anyone else. With an assortment of small pools it was wonderful to get away from anyone else and take in the mountain views while soaking.
Onwards from Bridgeport I visited another hotsprings, Walley's, near the community of Minden. This was of the developed kind but was well worth the admission due to the cold of eastern California near Lake Tahoe. Camping that night was quite tolerable in comparison with Bridgeport's overnight lows, but frosty.
I had heard that Reno, only a day's ride north, had a train service going to Sacramento, meaning that I could skip a gruelling climb up the Kingsbury grade to begin crossing the Sierra Nevada range without having to ride it. If you saw the Kingsbury grade I have no doubt you would have done the same. That was a no-fun uphill.
Back in Nevada again, I visited Reno, a city much like Las Vegas. Reno is a smaller, down-sized version of Las Vegas, but it has the same glittering repulsion that will keep me away from Nevada for a very long time. Casinos require sunglasses, always.
After my hotel stay in Reno I was up early and ready to go for a train ride. Of course the train was an hour late, so I opted to jump on the bus, due to it being cheaper, departing earlier and taking less time to cross the same distance. Time warp, thousands of pedal strokes flashed before my eyes and 'whump!', the warm air of Sacramento hit me with a humidity I hadn't felt in a long time. Visions of high passes covered in snow melted from memory as I broke into a sweat, off with the thermal layers!
Sitting by the Sacramento river I contemplated a convoluted array of emotions. I realized that I was homesick but not in the common interpretation of the word. I was sick of being leered at by Americans due to my accent and longed to be in Canada, where I don't speak self-consciously. Long over-stressed vowels seem to have become an American stereotype of Canadians. I still can't even hear the difference.
So it is not home that I crave, to the point is that I don't want to spend more time in the U.S.A.
Monday, November 8, 2010
Day 67 - Hell freezes over...
Mammoth Lakes, elevation 7800', is cold today. The high elevation is quite different from the summer temperatures of Death Valley. When I arrived early today I was disheartened to see snow falling after biking through rain and gusty headwinds, but every local I met was ecstatic at the prospect of skiing powder when the ski resort opens in just four days. Their collective exuberance is irresistible and I am excited about the coming winter season even though my skis are a far distance away. With a few hundred miles remaining to Sacramento, the nearest train station servicing Seattle, I may have to make the most of the transportation system and use a bus to get closer to Canada. That is the least preferred option. Another option is to tuck my tail and ride back in the direction I have come, south, seeking warmer weather at lower elevations for the duration of my U.S. stay. Ideally the recent heavy snowfall will melt by Wednesday and I can resume bicycling highway 395 to Lake Tahoe before turning West to descend into central California and the train to Seattle.
Couchsurfing.org has provided no hosts in Mammoth(due to extremely short notice), but while shopping at a local gear shop for socks to wear while doing laundry I met Chris Reid. Chris gave me his number to call him in an emergency and sent me on my way while finishing his shift. After doing laundry I headed uphill to the Davison St. Guest House, a local hostel, with the intention of calling Chris to hang out after I had found my own accomodation to avoid causing any last-minute inconvenience. As I struggled through the snow, Chris, with his girlfriend Courtney, recognized me. Obviously I am the only person bicycling with a trailer and gear in Mammoth Lakes. They walked with me past the hostel and to their nearby home, where I stored my gear before joining them on the walk to Bingo. As old as it sounds, the Bingo crowd was quite young. Within the first few rounds Chris won $50 and in the last round I was so lucky as to win $91. I will admit to having had more fun in my lifetime, but drunken Bingo is quite easy and fun.
When I departed the town of Lone Pine yesterday I had intended to go to Bishop, but when I was unable to find a couchsurfing host I assumed the remaining 40-miles to Mammoth Lakes were reasonable to finish off the day with. I was very, very wrong. From Bishop the highway climbs extensively, ascending to Tom's Place at 7000' from 4140' before climbing higher to Mammoth Lakes. I rode towards Hot Creek, a hot springs that had been closed to bathers, unbeknownst to me and my meager research, for over a year. Upon arrival I made camp less than ten miles from Mammoth Lakes village and collapsed into my tent, falling into a dream-filled sleep.
Lone Pine is adjacent to the aesthetic Alabama hills and was a great place to spend a day of rest. Further west from Lone Pine and Alabama Hills is Mount Whitney, California's highest peak at 14,505'. Mounts Williams and Langley as well as Lone Pine peak made for a great backdrop to my campsite overlooking the townsite. Alabama hills is filled with fascinating geological formations in the form of a multitude of rounded boulders, at some points appearing very jumbled together and at other's looking exquisitely sculpted into eye-catching formations. Alabama hills are claimed to be one of the Earth's oldest surface rock formations.
Couchsurfing.org has provided no hosts in Mammoth(due to extremely short notice), but while shopping at a local gear shop for socks to wear while doing laundry I met Chris Reid. Chris gave me his number to call him in an emergency and sent me on my way while finishing his shift. After doing laundry I headed uphill to the Davison St. Guest House, a local hostel, with the intention of calling Chris to hang out after I had found my own accomodation to avoid causing any last-minute inconvenience. As I struggled through the snow, Chris, with his girlfriend Courtney, recognized me. Obviously I am the only person bicycling with a trailer and gear in Mammoth Lakes. They walked with me past the hostel and to their nearby home, where I stored my gear before joining them on the walk to Bingo. As old as it sounds, the Bingo crowd was quite young. Within the first few rounds Chris won $50 and in the last round I was so lucky as to win $91. I will admit to having had more fun in my lifetime, but drunken Bingo is quite easy and fun.
When I departed the town of Lone Pine yesterday I had intended to go to Bishop, but when I was unable to find a couchsurfing host I assumed the remaining 40-miles to Mammoth Lakes were reasonable to finish off the day with. I was very, very wrong. From Bishop the highway climbs extensively, ascending to Tom's Place at 7000' from 4140' before climbing higher to Mammoth Lakes. I rode towards Hot Creek, a hot springs that had been closed to bathers, unbeknownst to me and my meager research, for over a year. Upon arrival I made camp less than ten miles from Mammoth Lakes village and collapsed into my tent, falling into a dream-filled sleep.
Lone Pine is adjacent to the aesthetic Alabama hills and was a great place to spend a day of rest. Further west from Lone Pine and Alabama Hills is Mount Whitney, California's highest peak at 14,505'. Mounts Williams and Langley as well as Lone Pine peak made for a great backdrop to my campsite overlooking the townsite. Alabama hills is filled with fascinating geological formations in the form of a multitude of rounded boulders, at some points appearing very jumbled together and at other's looking exquisitely sculpted into eye-catching formations. Alabama hills are claimed to be one of the Earth's oldest surface rock formations.
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Day 64 - Lone Pine, California
Solo!
Just to say it still has a nice ring (sorry Thomas.) The Broemeling brothers have parted paths as of November 1st. Unwilling to box and fly with my bicycle I will continue solo going north-bound, until I am unwilling to go on. What makes me unwilling? Severe rain or longing to see the ocean come immediately to mind. Thomas has flown to Las Angeles for further vacation before returning to Jasper.
I left the South-West of Las Vegas for Pahrump via highway 160. Immediately after leaving the city limits I came upon a big pass, but got to watch a spectacular sunset as I coasted down the back slope after making the summit. Woke up on the roadside the next day; after listening to the highway all evening I was irked that I had been too tired to find a place further from the highway. Regardless of where you freecamp, the desert plants provide nothing for cover. Don't try to hide out there.
After Pahrump, hit a huge downhill and descended into Death Valley. No surprise, it almost killed me to hit sea elevation and the temperatures that come with it. Chose to forgo a stay in Furnace Creek and biked on, through the night, to get closer to the end of Death Valley. Made it to Stovepipe Wells twenty-four miles away, and made camp after biking with nothing but the starlight to guide me. The minimal traffic was a good thing, because I couldn't take my eyes off the beauty of the desert sky. As I glanced back during my ride, I could still see the glow of Las Vegas, it was two days of bike riding away and I was re-affirmed in my happiness to be getting further away from the craziness.
After resting in Stovepipe Wells, I began ascending one of the most grueling summits yet. Towne Pass (almost 5000') was 18 miles of uphill in blistering heat. It cooled slightly as I rose higher, but the exertion was insufferable. Claimed a siesta halfway up in the shade of the only tree in Death Valley. It was very surprising that I didn't find more bleached-white bone carcasses of cyclists who had died en route.
Came over the top and had a white-knuckle downhill ride back to sea level. Heat returned and I gingerly rode into Panamint Springs to stay on my third night.
Woke up today and left Panamint Springs to resume climbing. Instead of sleeping in and not starting until noon, as I had foolishly done in Stovepipe Wells, I leapt out of bed before sunrise and packed up just in time to start biking when the first rays of light began to scorch the hills again. I don't even want to imagine what this place is like in the summer. Definitely the right treatment to make one appreciate winter; go ride a bike through a desert.
Just to say it still has a nice ring (sorry Thomas.) The Broemeling brothers have parted paths as of November 1st. Unwilling to box and fly with my bicycle I will continue solo going north-bound, until I am unwilling to go on. What makes me unwilling? Severe rain or longing to see the ocean come immediately to mind. Thomas has flown to Las Angeles for further vacation before returning to Jasper.
I left the South-West of Las Vegas for Pahrump via highway 160. Immediately after leaving the city limits I came upon a big pass, but got to watch a spectacular sunset as I coasted down the back slope after making the summit. Woke up on the roadside the next day; after listening to the highway all evening I was irked that I had been too tired to find a place further from the highway. Regardless of where you freecamp, the desert plants provide nothing for cover. Don't try to hide out there.
After Pahrump, hit a huge downhill and descended into Death Valley. No surprise, it almost killed me to hit sea elevation and the temperatures that come with it. Chose to forgo a stay in Furnace Creek and biked on, through the night, to get closer to the end of Death Valley. Made it to Stovepipe Wells twenty-four miles away, and made camp after biking with nothing but the starlight to guide me. The minimal traffic was a good thing, because I couldn't take my eyes off the beauty of the desert sky. As I glanced back during my ride, I could still see the glow of Las Vegas, it was two days of bike riding away and I was re-affirmed in my happiness to be getting further away from the craziness.
After resting in Stovepipe Wells, I began ascending one of the most grueling summits yet. Towne Pass (almost 5000') was 18 miles of uphill in blistering heat. It cooled slightly as I rose higher, but the exertion was insufferable. Claimed a siesta halfway up in the shade of the only tree in Death Valley. It was very surprising that I didn't find more bleached-white bone carcasses of cyclists who had died en route.
Came over the top and had a white-knuckle downhill ride back to sea level. Heat returned and I gingerly rode into Panamint Springs to stay on my third night.
Woke up today and left Panamint Springs to resume climbing. Instead of sleeping in and not starting until noon, as I had foolishly done in Stovepipe Wells, I leapt out of bed before sunrise and packed up just in time to start biking when the first rays of light began to scorch the hills again. I don't even want to imagine what this place is like in the summer. Definitely the right treatment to make one appreciate winter; go ride a bike through a desert.
Monday, November 1, 2010
And more pictures! Day 60 - Las Vegas departure
Well Las Vegas has been discovered and now it's time to move on into California.
There are three new albums of pictures linked above for your viewing pleasure.
The Halloween pictures are often blurry due to an unsteady hand... deletions will have
to be done at a later time.
Thank you Brent and Francisca for accommodating Thomas and I.
There are three new albums of pictures linked above for your viewing pleasure.
The Halloween pictures are often blurry due to an unsteady hand... deletions will have
to be done at a later time.
Thank you Brent and Francisca for accommodating Thomas and I.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Happy Halloween!
New pictures are up! Check out 98 pictures (link above) from Jackson, Wyoming to Bryce Canyon, Utah.
The rest have to wait due to a depleted battery.
Roaming the strip last night was a blast. I'm glad we made it to Vegas for the Halloween holiday.
There were countless costumes and good times had by our eclecticly costumed gang.
Our couchsurfing hosts for the holiday weekend, Brent and Francisca, went as an Arab and Persian respectively.
Thomas was highly decorated in his perfectly fit military soldier uniform. As a Native American, I was catching quite a few eyes with my loincloth. We had been joking before going out that a wardrobe malfunction would be disastrous for me and was I ever glad that leather is a strong material to make clothing out of.
No time to get into details, we have to get to the Halloween parade taking place tonight.
I love Halloween!
The rest have to wait due to a depleted battery.
Roaming the strip last night was a blast. I'm glad we made it to Vegas for the Halloween holiday.
There were countless costumes and good times had by our eclecticly costumed gang.
Our couchsurfing hosts for the holiday weekend, Brent and Francisca, went as an Arab and Persian respectively.
Thomas was highly decorated in his perfectly fit military soldier uniform. As a Native American, I was catching quite a few eyes with my loincloth. We had been joking before going out that a wardrobe malfunction would be disastrous for me and was I ever glad that leather is a strong material to make clothing out of.
No time to get into details, we have to get to the Halloween parade taking place tonight.
I love Halloween!
Friday, October 29, 2010
Halloween weekend!
Viva Las Vegas. To paraphrase from a guidebook introduction, Vegas is unlike any other city in the world because other cities build hotels near the major attractions, whereas the hotel casinos here are the major attractions. The themes have run wild and opulence is flying out of the gambling hands and into the fabric of the city. As one major hotel surpasses another in excess the challenge is matched and there appears to be no end in sight with the newest casino addition coming in December: the Cosmopolitan.
I have refrained from gambling entirely, because I don't feel the need to donate to the vast riches of the casinos. After the luxurious Mormon temple and devoted missionaries in Salt Lake city, I see no lack of devotion from the casino goers towards their own gambling religion. Everybody pays for their faith! The next step is to combine the two and really double down on hope. Introducing the future: 24/7 churches with VLT's. Learn morals whilst being given free drinks for your gambled donations! All tax free!
Allright, not really a great idea, but I rode a bike to Vegas, so don't be fooled into thinking that I believe anything is impossible.
I've come to the epiphany that the memories of the bike ride are endeared because we saw vast tracts of the spectacular geography of the U.S. and then made them more cherished by terminating the journey at the most fake city I have ever seen. After weeks of constantly changing natural settings we have arrived at an artificial and uninhibited manifestation of gambling. The themes of traveling without gasoline and visiting six national parks starkly contrasts, to the extent of irony, the sin city destination.
Thomas...next time I'm picking the route.
I have refrained from gambling entirely, because I don't feel the need to donate to the vast riches of the casinos. After the luxurious Mormon temple and devoted missionaries in Salt Lake city, I see no lack of devotion from the casino goers towards their own gambling religion. Everybody pays for their faith! The next step is to combine the two and really double down on hope. Introducing the future: 24/7 churches with VLT's. Learn morals whilst being given free drinks for your gambled donations! All tax free!
Allright, not really a great idea, but I rode a bike to Vegas, so don't be fooled into thinking that I believe anything is impossible.
I've come to the epiphany that the memories of the bike ride are endeared because we saw vast tracts of the spectacular geography of the U.S. and then made them more cherished by terminating the journey at the most fake city I have ever seen. After weeks of constantly changing natural settings we have arrived at an artificial and uninhibited manifestation of gambling. The themes of traveling without gasoline and visiting six national parks starkly contrasts, to the extent of irony, the sin city destination.
Thomas...next time I'm picking the route.
Monday, October 25, 2010
Day 54 - Las Vegas
Vegas, baby!
We made it to our goal last night. After 53 days of cycle touring we have good timing to relax for a week before Halloween. We met up with Lauren and Mike at the Monte Carlo shortly after arriving, but to my chagrin they were intent on poker. We were walking the strip, taking in the sights when another surprise hit me: Charlene Tio-Tio was walking in the opposite direction with coworkers Laureen and Collette. They were on a staff vacation with the Jasper Dental Clinic. Charlene joined us as Thomas, Lauren, Mike and I walked from casino to casino.
To get to Vegas from Zion, we did two 80 mile (129 kilometer) days. It was enough exercise that both Thomas and I were pretty exhausted when we finally went back to our room to crash. We found out last night that no-one who wears swimwear or athletic clothing is allowed into any club, so I have to go pants and shoe shopping to replace my ragged runners and overly warm wool pants.
We made it to our goal last night. After 53 days of cycle touring we have good timing to relax for a week before Halloween. We met up with Lauren and Mike at the Monte Carlo shortly after arriving, but to my chagrin they were intent on poker. We were walking the strip, taking in the sights when another surprise hit me: Charlene Tio-Tio was walking in the opposite direction with coworkers Laureen and Collette. They were on a staff vacation with the Jasper Dental Clinic. Charlene joined us as Thomas, Lauren, Mike and I walked from casino to casino.
To get to Vegas from Zion, we did two 80 mile (129 kilometer) days. It was enough exercise that both Thomas and I were pretty exhausted when we finally went back to our room to crash. We found out last night that no-one who wears swimwear or athletic clothing is allowed into any club, so I have to go pants and shoe shopping to replace my ragged runners and overly warm wool pants.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Day 52 - Last day in Zion National Park
Heavy rains last night through to this morning have cleared and we're packed and nearly ready to commence our last leg of the journey to Vegas. I have great apprehensions about whatever events are soon to follow our arrival in the destination city.
Last night an unexpected coincidence surprised all parties involved. A couple of cyclists arrived and took a campsite just next to Thomas and I. I was curious to hear their story and brought some of the wine Thomas had shared with me over to the new arrivals to welcome them to Zion. They were Kip and Courtney from Yellowstone. As chance would have it, some of you may have seen Courtney's backside from the spoof pictures of me getting arrested by a warden. It was the same lady! Everyone had a good laugh and the look of shocked surprise on her face upon realizing we had met before was priceless. We hadn't met her boyfriend yet but both Kip and Courtney joined us for dinner and we shared some great conversation and a few games of pool afterwards.
Awesome people, they had been doing more backpacking than cycling on their vacation so far and were heading to flagstaff after visiting the North Rim of the grand canyon.
Well here goes some of the final days of riding ;)
Last night an unexpected coincidence surprised all parties involved. A couple of cyclists arrived and took a campsite just next to Thomas and I. I was curious to hear their story and brought some of the wine Thomas had shared with me over to the new arrivals to welcome them to Zion. They were Kip and Courtney from Yellowstone. As chance would have it, some of you may have seen Courtney's backside from the spoof pictures of me getting arrested by a warden. It was the same lady! Everyone had a good laugh and the look of shocked surprise on her face upon realizing we had met before was priceless. We hadn't met her boyfriend yet but both Kip and Courtney joined us for dinner and we shared some great conversation and a few games of pool afterwards.
Awesome people, they had been doing more backpacking than cycling on their vacation so far and were heading to flagstaff after visiting the North Rim of the grand canyon.
Well here goes some of the final days of riding ;)
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Seven weeks -Zion National Park
We have had an epic week exploring three different National Parks. Capitol Reef was a splendid feature, the sheer walls of a lengthy canyon and vivid red colours were pleasant to ride along while enjoying a warm and sunny day. We had stored our trailers for the day in the junction town (highways 24 & 12) of Torrey. Riding without the heavy gear made us feel fast, so fast that when we had once again hitched the trailers, the tail end of the day was agonizingly slow.
After a camp-out in the woods we continued onwards over the 9600' Boulder Mountain pass. There were four different false summits; the road would flatten out and curve out of sight, deceiving us into believing we were at the top, but as the slight curve was passed, we would be crest-fallen at the sight of another steep uphill. Views from the top were splendid though, as the dry Utah air gives excellent visibility over long distances. After a long descent we came upon the Hogsback Spine , a section of the highway that twisted and curved along a high ridge overlooking steep canyons on either side. We rode into the twilight hour of sunset to arrive at Escalante.
In Escalante we went out for a beer and met Drew, a local who gave us directions to a party at a ranch just outside of town. By the time we had arrived the live music had ended, but we were introduced to a number of locals and told our story numerous times.
Outside of Escalante the next day, we were tired from fighting a headwind andtook lunch early. Sitting on the tarp with our legs covered, another cyclist came upon us. Lauren had been on the road for sixty days, two weeks longer than us on a cross-country tour from Boston to San Jose, California. She was a recent graduate of photo-journalism and was on her way to her hometown. Mike was her travel companion and had driven from their mutual hometown to act as support. Thomas and I were very jealous because Lauren could bike ultra-light with Mike carrying the bulk of her gear in the car. We all shared a campsite in Bryce National Park that night. It was rainy and before going to bed it was obvious that the clouds had descended and put us in a fog.
The following morning Mike kindly offered his backseat to Thomas and I as they toured the canyon. We couldn't resist the offer, but had to withstand the urge to pedal while in the backseat. A plaque gave some information on the etymology of 'Bryce' Canyon. Mr. Bryce and his wife Mary were pioneers of the canyon and he was quoted as having said: ''It's a hell of a place to lose a cow.'' With a plethora of hoodoos, rolling hills and large expanse of difficult terrain, it was obvious why Mr. Bryce would say this but the scenery was spectacular. It was so good that I was glad that I don't have any worrisome stock to attend to . Lauren and Mike dropped us off at camp and left for a sidetrip to Vegas before resuming the tour.
After the rest day in Bryce we found a downhill trend and made great time all the way to our current location of Springdale on the southern border of Zion National Park.
When we arrived at the eastern gate we found out that the road was closed to bicycles due to construction. Our only option was to hitch-hike, but it only took about twenty minutes for two vehicles stop, a truck to put our bikes in and an SUV to carry us. As we passed through the 1.1 mile long tunnel, brief window glimpses took our breath away until we reached the exit and a stunning view, better than Capitol Reef or Bryce was presented. We looked in awe at rampart red rock walls towering above. We agreed to spend extra time here to take it all in.
After a camp-out in the woods we continued onwards over the 9600' Boulder Mountain pass. There were four different false summits; the road would flatten out and curve out of sight, deceiving us into believing we were at the top, but as the slight curve was passed, we would be crest-fallen at the sight of another steep uphill. Views from the top were splendid though, as the dry Utah air gives excellent visibility over long distances. After a long descent we came upon the Hogsback Spine , a section of the highway that twisted and curved along a high ridge overlooking steep canyons on either side. We rode into the twilight hour of sunset to arrive at Escalante.
In Escalante we went out for a beer and met Drew, a local who gave us directions to a party at a ranch just outside of town. By the time we had arrived the live music had ended, but we were introduced to a number of locals and told our story numerous times.
Outside of Escalante the next day, we were tired from fighting a headwind andtook lunch early. Sitting on the tarp with our legs covered, another cyclist came upon us. Lauren had been on the road for sixty days, two weeks longer than us on a cross-country tour from Boston to San Jose, California. She was a recent graduate of photo-journalism and was on her way to her hometown. Mike was her travel companion and had driven from their mutual hometown to act as support. Thomas and I were very jealous because Lauren could bike ultra-light with Mike carrying the bulk of her gear in the car. We all shared a campsite in Bryce National Park that night. It was rainy and before going to bed it was obvious that the clouds had descended and put us in a fog.
The following morning Mike kindly offered his backseat to Thomas and I as they toured the canyon. We couldn't resist the offer, but had to withstand the urge to pedal while in the backseat. A plaque gave some information on the etymology of 'Bryce' Canyon. Mr. Bryce and his wife Mary were pioneers of the canyon and he was quoted as having said: ''It's a hell of a place to lose a cow.'' With a plethora of hoodoos, rolling hills and large expanse of difficult terrain, it was obvious why Mr. Bryce would say this but the scenery was spectacular. It was so good that I was glad that I don't have any worrisome stock to attend to . Lauren and Mike dropped us off at camp and left for a sidetrip to Vegas before resuming the tour.
After the rest day in Bryce we found a downhill trend and made great time all the way to our current location of Springdale on the southern border of Zion National Park.
When we arrived at the eastern gate we found out that the road was closed to bicycles due to construction. Our only option was to hitch-hike, but it only took about twenty minutes for two vehicles stop, a truck to put our bikes in and an SUV to carry us. As we passed through the 1.1 mile long tunnel, brief window glimpses took our breath away until we reached the exit and a stunning view, better than Capitol Reef or Bryce was presented. We looked in awe at rampart red rock walls towering above. We agreed to spend extra time here to take it all in.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Day 43 - Rest Day in Bicknell, Utah
A rare occasion today, Thomas and I have stayed two nights in the same town. After another long stretch of cycling, we've taken a full day of rest. With its Post Office, two motels and a restaurant I knew there was no way I could relax in town, so I went for a relaxing solo trail ride. The Great Western ATV Trail follows Velvet ridge between Torrey, the next town to the south-east and our current location of Bicknell. The trail wasn't smooth and the cyclocross bike I ride lacks any suspension, but the technical challenge and awe inspiring landscape made for a worthwhile ride. Again today the weather was perfect with no clouds and a cool wind to keep the temperature pleasant.
We've truly crossed the threshold from the American Northwest into the Southwest. Today I was mesmerized at numerous points along the ride. The views are beautiful and completely different from the desert of Alberta. The land is vibrant to such an extent that for the first time the flora is of no interest in comparison. I'm not even at the National Park, yet my jaded, bike-weary attitude has been renewed by spectacular sights.
We've truly crossed the threshold from the American Northwest into the Southwest. Today I was mesmerized at numerous points along the ride. The views are beautiful and completely different from the desert of Alberta. The land is vibrant to such an extent that for the first time the flora is of no interest in comparison. I'm not even at the National Park, yet my jaded, bike-weary attitude has been renewed by spectacular sights.
Six weeks! Bicknell, Utah
Capitol Reef National Park lies to the south-east. We are truly in the desert and find ourselves surrounded by rolling hills and parched scrubby bushes. Camping last night proved why wool is a bad idea as I picked dozens of thorny seeds from my Canuck ensemble. The desert has shown itself first in the form of some isolated hoodoo's and the occasional mound of red dirt yesterday. Now we are surrounded by tall red sandstone cliffs and bone-dry farmers fields. Although the sun shone hotly throughout the day the high elevations passed kept us cool. The first summit at approximately 7300 feet fooled me into thinking the remainder of the day would be downhill. As the next uphill began I realized my mistake. At 8400 feet the thin air felt great upon seeing snow high up on a ridge. Once again I found myself surprised, simply from two mountain passes and the sight of snow, even though I know that surprises in a lifetime are continuous. Amazement never ceases.
A little research reveals that a train ride from Las Angeles to Seattle is only $150. It could be a good way to get back to Canada.
A little research reveals that a train ride from Las Angeles to Seattle is only $150. It could be a good way to get back to Canada.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Day 40 - Nephi, Utah
Today the odometer on Thomas' bike computer reads 1622 miles, or 2610 kilometers. I'm happy to state this because for the first time Thomas and I saw a road sign displaying "Las Vegas 350 miles." It brightened the day for both of to think that we were so close after nearly six weeks. Of course we're not taking the shortest 350 mile route, the next three big features are Capitol Reef, Bryce and Zion National Parks.
For Thanksgiving Thomas and I free camped on the western shore of Utah Lake. I tried to cook a coconut curry meal good enough to send any thoughts of turkey awash, but it didn't cut the cake. However the fading light of the day on the mountains made for an enjoyable sunset. As the light went red Thomas and I joked about the nearby city of Provo. It is one of the larger communities in Utah and has one bar. The people there live for the book of Mormon. Earlier that day we went to temple square in Salt Lake City. Every street in the city is oriented upon the temple. It is the international headquarters for the church of Jesus Christ of latter day saints. The centre of Salt Lake City is exorbitant and of papal proportions.
On Saturday Thomas and I had been searching for a couch to crash on when we met Chaz at his place of employment, Carlucci's bakery. He invited us to stay at his place and join in a backyard party. Two bands, both good friends of Chaz, were coming through town that night and he had asked them to play a set. Another local solo artist and a third band made for a great evening of rock and pop music. Could we be any luckier? Yes dear reader, it was topped off by Chaz bringing home a garbage bag full of bread from his bakery and a scrambled egg breakfast with coffee.
For Thanksgiving Thomas and I free camped on the western shore of Utah Lake. I tried to cook a coconut curry meal good enough to send any thoughts of turkey awash, but it didn't cut the cake. However the fading light of the day on the mountains made for an enjoyable sunset. As the light went red Thomas and I joked about the nearby city of Provo. It is one of the larger communities in Utah and has one bar. The people there live for the book of Mormon. Earlier that day we went to temple square in Salt Lake City. Every street in the city is oriented upon the temple. It is the international headquarters for the church of Jesus Christ of latter day saints. The centre of Salt Lake City is exorbitant and of papal proportions.
On Saturday Thomas and I had been searching for a couch to crash on when we met Chaz at his place of employment, Carlucci's bakery. He invited us to stay at his place and join in a backyard party. Two bands, both good friends of Chaz, were coming through town that night and he had asked them to play a set. Another local solo artist and a third band made for a great evening of rock and pop music. Could we be any luckier? Yes dear reader, it was topped off by Chaz bringing home a garbage bag full of bread from his bakery and a scrambled egg breakfast with coffee.
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Day 36 - Logan, Utah
Thomas and I have entered our fourth state on the tour. From Bear Lake, Wyoming we utilized highway 89 to brush upon the south-eastern tip of Idaho before entering Utah enroute to Salt Lake City. Logan Canyon was a very scenic stretch of highway right before Logan city. It was very beautiful even though I am getting jaded from many days on the bicycle. The canyon was imposingly steep and the visible rock looked as though there was potential for lots of climbing. In the last few miles of canyon we hit the edge of a large strorm cell and were buffeted by strong winds before entering a torrential thundershower. It had looked very ominous and long-lasting, but a dinner stop at a restaurant outlasted the bad weather. After talking to some old americans at the bar in the dinner Thomas and I agreed that we had both perceived a change from the laconic style of Montana and Wyoming to an exaggeration upon small talk.
Tomorrow is David Broemeling's birthday, and becasue I know he is reading the blog I have to post:
Happy Birthday!
Tomorrow is David Broemeling's birthday, and becasue I know he is reading the blog I have to post:
Happy Birthday!
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Day 34 - Afton, WY
Thomas booked an appointment at the local clinic yesterday to find out this morning that he has an upper respiratory throat infection. It fits with the symptoms he has had over the last few days; coughing, inflamed throat, runny nose and tired.
We will be doing short days until he is better, if any at all. Our next rest stop will be in Bear Lake. The weather is back to sunny today after a few showers yesterday. Both the eastern and western U.S. coastlines are being rained on, but things won't detiorate immediately. Hopefully the coming weekend won't be too wet.
We're off again...
We will be doing short days until he is better, if any at all. Our next rest stop will be in Bear Lake. The weather is back to sunny today after a few showers yesterday. Both the eastern and western U.S. coastlines are being rained on, but things won't detiorate immediately. Hopefully the coming weekend won't be too wet.
We're off again...
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Jackson
Pictures are uploaded onto photobucket... all 318 of them.
Check out the latest 100 at a slideshow
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We have had another wonderful couchsurf with our hostess Meggan in Jackson!
Time to hit the trail.
Check out the latest 100 at a slideshow
s1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc414/shamoosb/?action=view¤t=5d50c3ab.pbw>
or search my username at photobucket.com: 'shamoosb'
We have had another wonderful couchsurf with our hostess Meggan in Jackson!
Time to hit the trail.
Saturday, October 2, 2010
Day 31 - Jackson, Wyoming
Thomas and I arrived in Jackson yesterday afternoon right before the heat of the day rose to 80 F. (27 C.)
Before I say anything on experiencing the town and it's nightlife, I have to comment on the wonderful weather we have had this week. The sky has been almost perfectly blue and unmarred by any significant clouds. Only the occasional wisp of white has revealed itself before being dissolved by the glaring sun. Have to go shopping for more sunscreen and some lip balm after this radiant week.
As we have left the high elevations of Yellowstone Park and approached Jackson through Grand Teton National Park, the number of deciduous trees has jumped into a myriad of fall colours. There were small patches of aspen as we traveled through Yellowstone showing a range of colour from the early yellow stages to blush red. Once off of the high plateau of the Caldera region the surrounding forests seemed to explode around us with every leafy plant giving it's own display of yellow and red tones. My favorite views have been from bridges that cross over dry riverbeds where there are large trees growing on small islands and adding splashes of multifarious yellow to the grey rock. At our last stop in the Signal Mountain Campground the ground cover around our site and throughout the area was wonderful, every plant showing it's own fade from green to yellow then red.
Grand Teton National Park reminds me of Jasper National Park, but it has it's differences. Our last crossing of the continental divide in Yellowstone brought us to an elevation just below eight-thousand feet. Having climbed that high resulted in a coasting ride down to Grand Teton. As Jackson lake came into view we glimpsed the mountain range that makes this park famous. Craggy peaks and sheer rock walls dominated the western horizon and rolling hills to the east and south hemmed in a stunning valley. With the number of fish we've seen in the rivers from the bridges I am regretful that I didn't allow space to pack a fishing kit to try my luck for a trout dinner. The rivers and forest are teeming with life. There is quite the contrast from the perceived fire and brimstone of Yellowstone to the rugged mountain splendour of Grand Teton.
As we past by the largest peak, Grand Teton itself, the Jackson hole ski resort came into view just further south. It looks good. The runs were long, with the longest run at over one kilometre it would be a place to improve your riding very quickly.
Last night we went to the Snake River Brewpub and shortly before leaving had an amicable conversation with a retired cop and his wife from California. They were so kind as to buy our dinner and drinks! My bias against Americans is taking a beating as we continue to meet more and more nice people.
Cheers
Before I say anything on experiencing the town and it's nightlife, I have to comment on the wonderful weather we have had this week. The sky has been almost perfectly blue and unmarred by any significant clouds. Only the occasional wisp of white has revealed itself before being dissolved by the glaring sun. Have to go shopping for more sunscreen and some lip balm after this radiant week.
As we have left the high elevations of Yellowstone Park and approached Jackson through Grand Teton National Park, the number of deciduous trees has jumped into a myriad of fall colours. There were small patches of aspen as we traveled through Yellowstone showing a range of colour from the early yellow stages to blush red. Once off of the high plateau of the Caldera region the surrounding forests seemed to explode around us with every leafy plant giving it's own display of yellow and red tones. My favorite views have been from bridges that cross over dry riverbeds where there are large trees growing on small islands and adding splashes of multifarious yellow to the grey rock. At our last stop in the Signal Mountain Campground the ground cover around our site and throughout the area was wonderful, every plant showing it's own fade from green to yellow then red.
Grand Teton National Park reminds me of Jasper National Park, but it has it's differences. Our last crossing of the continental divide in Yellowstone brought us to an elevation just below eight-thousand feet. Having climbed that high resulted in a coasting ride down to Grand Teton. As Jackson lake came into view we glimpsed the mountain range that makes this park famous. Craggy peaks and sheer rock walls dominated the western horizon and rolling hills to the east and south hemmed in a stunning valley. With the number of fish we've seen in the rivers from the bridges I am regretful that I didn't allow space to pack a fishing kit to try my luck for a trout dinner. The rivers and forest are teeming with life. There is quite the contrast from the perceived fire and brimstone of Yellowstone to the rugged mountain splendour of Grand Teton.
As we past by the largest peak, Grand Teton itself, the Jackson hole ski resort came into view just further south. It looks good. The runs were long, with the longest run at over one kilometre it would be a place to improve your riding very quickly.
Last night we went to the Snake River Brewpub and shortly before leaving had an amicable conversation with a retired cop and his wife from California. They were so kind as to buy our dinner and drinks! My bias against Americans is taking a beating as we continue to meet more and more nice people.
Cheers
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Four Weeks - Grant Village, Yellowstone Lake
Happy Birthday Thomas! Sweet 21 and legal in all states!
We are celebrating the day by staying in a hotel, lounging on the beach when the temperature hits 74 F. (23 C.) and having beers at lunch. Yellowstone park has been full of surprises since our arrival.
The Boiling River is a Hydrothermal feature of great enjoyment. The Gardner river is warmed from it's cool temperature to various soaking temperatures, hottest at the spring mouth itself.
As Yellowstone National Park is quite high in elevation, it is usually snow-covered at this time of the year. We are lucky to enjoy a late summer, but nearly all the campgrounds have closed and many of the service providers have shut their doors for the season. It wouldn't be a problem if Thomas and I didn't need food to travel. The gas station mini-market will have to provide until Jackson, Wyoming.
Last night the Elk, which are in their heat, or rutting season, bugled constantly. Everyone here loves them, but Thomas and I are jaded to the beauty of Elk after having been raised in Jasper, the mountain town littered with Elk poo.
We are celebrating the day by staying in a hotel, lounging on the beach when the temperature hits 74 F. (23 C.) and having beers at lunch. Yellowstone park has been full of surprises since our arrival.
The Boiling River is a Hydrothermal feature of great enjoyment. The Gardner river is warmed from it's cool temperature to various soaking temperatures, hottest at the spring mouth itself.
As Yellowstone National Park is quite high in elevation, it is usually snow-covered at this time of the year. We are lucky to enjoy a late summer, but nearly all the campgrounds have closed and many of the service providers have shut their doors for the season. It wouldn't be a problem if Thomas and I didn't need food to travel. The gas station mini-market will have to provide until Jackson, Wyoming.
Last night the Elk, which are in their heat, or rutting season, bugled constantly. Everyone here loves them, but Thomas and I are jaded to the beauty of Elk after having been raised in Jasper, the mountain town littered with Elk poo.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Day 25 - Chico Hot Springs
This evening Thomas and I are lodged at the Chico Hot Springs Resort. The hotel is over one hundred years old and endearing upon arrival because of the welcoming front staff and quaint lobby furnishings. Our reasonably priced room is over the front desk and down a hallway from the pools. Adjacent to the pool is the bar and as it is now last call (2a.m.) I can hear the last of the bar crowd dispersing. The resort is a very nice destination to spend a burning hot day cycling sixty miles to arrive at sunset. It was sunny and blue and scorching today. Shortly after leaving beautiful Bozeman Thomas and I applied sunscreen to each other's backs. We rode south and our patchy aplications were assailed throughout the day so that we now both have patchy right-hand side sunburns on our arms and torsos. In fact we were so weary after our first truly hot and cloudless day that I have some apprehension about the deserts lying to the south. One option is to do the brunt of our riding in the hours directly following sunrise, taking a siesta during the heat of the day.
Last night we were welcomed into the home of the three nicest and most open-minded people in Bozeman. Jessa, Sean and Jenna made Thomas and I feel welcomed into the hobbit-doored home they live in. We met Jessa and Jenna by coincidence at the Bozeman Hot Springs at a time when morale was low between my brother and I. We had arrived too late to go soaking and were arguing to find a course of action when Jessa approached us to ask if we were lost. Almost immediately we were invited to stay with the sisters after they finished their workday of nannying. We were told that they were part of the couchsurfing community and so it was to be Thomas' first couchsurfing experience: What a wonderful group to be accommodated by! Now Thomas is excited to couchsurf again, probably after his 21st birthday in Jackson, Wyoming. Thank you Jenna and Jessa for showing him the open hospitality that makes couchsurfing work. Thomas had been apprehensive about couchsurfing before Bozeman, MT and is now a changed man by a small group in a liberal city. Maybe the couchsurfing.org website will become the favorite way to travel for both of us in the future, a possibility that I am very excited about.
Last night we were welcomed into the home of the three nicest and most open-minded people in Bozeman. Jessa, Sean and Jenna made Thomas and I feel welcomed into the hobbit-doored home they live in. We met Jessa and Jenna by coincidence at the Bozeman Hot Springs at a time when morale was low between my brother and I. We had arrived too late to go soaking and were arguing to find a course of action when Jessa approached us to ask if we were lost. Almost immediately we were invited to stay with the sisters after they finished their workday of nannying. We were told that they were part of the couchsurfing community and so it was to be Thomas' first couchsurfing experience: What a wonderful group to be accommodated by! Now Thomas is excited to couchsurf again, probably after his 21st birthday in Jackson, Wyoming. Thank you Jenna and Jessa for showing him the open hospitality that makes couchsurfing work. Thomas had been apprehensive about couchsurfing before Bozeman, MT and is now a changed man by a small group in a liberal city. Maybe the couchsurfing.org website will become the favorite way to travel for both of us in the future, a possibility that I am very excited about.
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