Happy Halloween!

New pictures are up!  Check out 98 pictures (link above) from Jackson, Wyoming to Bryce Canyon, Utah.
The rest have to wait due to a depleted battery. 
Roaming the strip last night was a blast.  I'm glad we made it to Vegas for the Halloween holiday.
There were countless costumes and good times had by our eclecticly costumed gang.
Our couchsurfing hosts for the holiday weekend, Brent and Francisca, went as an Arab and Persian respectively.
Thomas was highly decorated in his perfectly fit military soldier uniform.  As a Native American, I was catching quite a few eyes with my loincloth. We had been joking before going out that a wardrobe malfunction would be disastrous for me and was I ever glad that leather is a strong material to make clothing out of.
No time to get into details, we have to get to the Halloween parade taking place tonight.
I love Halloween!

Halloween weekend!

Viva Las Vegas. To paraphrase from a guidebook introduction, Vegas is unlike any other city in the world because other cities build hotels near the major attractions, whereas the hotel casinos here are the major attractions. The themes have run wild and opulence is flying out of the gambling hands and into the fabric of the city. As one major hotel surpasses another in excess the challenge is matched and there appears to be no end in sight with the newest casino addition coming in December: the Cosmopolitan.
I have refrained from gambling entirely, because I don't feel the need to donate to the vast riches of the casinos. After the luxurious Mormon temple and devoted missionaries in Salt Lake city, I see no lack of devotion from the casino goers towards their own gambling religion. Everybody pays for their faith! The next step is to combine the two and really double down on hope. Introducing the future: 24/7 churches with VLT's. Learn morals whilst being given free drinks for your gambled donations! All tax free!
Allright, not really a great idea, but I rode a bike to Vegas, so don't be fooled into thinking that I believe anything is impossible.
I've come to the epiphany that the memories of the bike ride are endeared because we saw vast tracts of the spectacular geography of the U.S. and then made them more cherished by terminating the journey at the most fake city I have ever seen. After weeks of constantly changing natural settings we have arrived at an artificial and uninhibited manifestation of gambling. The themes of traveling without gasoline and visiting six national parks starkly contrasts, to the extent of irony, the sin city destination.
Thomas...next time I'm picking the route.

Day 54 - Las Vegas

Vegas, baby!
We made it to our goal last night. After 53 days of cycle touring we have good timing to relax for a week before Halloween. We met up with Lauren and Mike at the Monte Carlo shortly after arriving, but to my chagrin they were intent on poker. We were walking the strip, taking in the sights when another surprise hit me: Charlene Tio-Tio was walking in the opposite direction with coworkers Laureen and Collette. They were on a staff vacation with the Jasper Dental Clinic. Charlene joined us as Thomas, Lauren, Mike and I walked from casino to casino.
To get to Vegas from Zion, we did two 80 mile (129 kilometer) days. It was enough exercise that both Thomas and I were pretty exhausted when we finally went back to our room to crash. We found out last night that no-one who wears swimwear or athletic clothing is allowed into any club, so I have to go pants and shoe shopping to replace my ragged runners and overly warm wool pants.

Day 52 - Last day in Zion National Park

Heavy rains last night through to this morning have cleared and we're packed and nearly ready to commence our last leg of the journey to Vegas. I have great apprehensions about whatever events are soon to follow our arrival in the destination city.
Last night an unexpected coincidence surprised all parties involved. A couple of cyclists arrived and took a campsite just next to Thomas and I. I was curious to hear their story and brought some of the wine Thomas had shared with me over to the new arrivals to welcome them to Zion. They were Kip and Courtney from Yellowstone. As chance would have it, some of you may have seen Courtney's backside from the spoof pictures of me getting arrested by a warden. It was the same lady! Everyone had a good laugh and the look of shocked surprise on her face upon realizing we had met before was priceless. We hadn't met her boyfriend yet but both Kip and Courtney joined us for dinner and we shared some great conversation and a few games of pool afterwards.
Awesome people, they had been doing more backpacking than cycling on their vacation so far and were heading to flagstaff after visiting the North Rim of the grand canyon.
Well here goes some of the final days of riding ;)

Seven weeks -Zion National Park

We have had an epic week exploring three different National Parks. Capitol Reef was a splendid feature, the sheer walls of a lengthy canyon and vivid red colours were pleasant to ride along while enjoying a warm and sunny day. We had stored our trailers for the day in the junction town (highways 24 & 12) of Torrey. Riding without the heavy gear made us feel fast, so fast that when we had once again hitched the trailers, the tail end of the day was agonizingly slow.
After a camp-out in the woods we continued onwards over the 9600' Boulder Mountain pass. There were four different false summits; the road would flatten out and curve out of sight, deceiving us into believing we were at the top, but as the slight curve was passed, we would be crest-fallen at the sight of another steep uphill. Views from the top were splendid though, as the dry Utah air gives excellent visibility over long distances. After a long descent we came upon the Hogsback Spine , a section of the highway that twisted and curved along a high ridge overlooking steep canyons on either side. We rode into the twilight hour of sunset to arrive at Escalante.
In Escalante we went out for a beer and met Drew, a local who gave us directions to a party at a ranch just outside of town. By the time we had arrived the live music had ended, but we were introduced to a number of locals and told our story numerous times.
Outside of Escalante the next day, we were tired from fighting a headwind andtook lunch early. Sitting on the tarp with our legs covered, another cyclist came upon us. Lauren had been on the road for sixty days, two weeks longer than us on a cross-country tour from Boston to San Jose, California. She was a recent graduate of photo-journalism and was on her way to her hometown. Mike was her travel companion and had driven from their mutual hometown to act as support. Thomas and I were very jealous because Lauren could bike ultra-light with Mike carrying the bulk of her gear in the car. We all shared a campsite in Bryce National Park that night. It was rainy and before going to bed it was obvious that the clouds had descended and put us in a fog.
The following morning Mike kindly offered his backseat to Thomas and I as they toured the canyon. We couldn't resist the offer, but had to withstand the urge to pedal while in the backseat. A plaque gave some information on the etymology of 'Bryce' Canyon. Mr. Bryce and his wife Mary were pioneers of the canyon and he was quoted as having said: ''It's a hell of a place to lose a cow.'' With a plethora of hoodoos, rolling hills and large expanse of difficult terrain, it was obvious why Mr. Bryce would say this but the scenery was spectacular. It was so good that I was glad that I don't have any worrisome stock to attend to . Lauren and Mike dropped us off at camp and left for a sidetrip to Vegas before resuming the tour.
After the rest day in Bryce we found a downhill trend and made great time all the way to our current location of Springdale on the southern border of Zion National Park.
When we arrived at the eastern gate we found out that the road was closed to bicycles due to construction. Our only option was to hitch-hike, but it only took about twenty minutes for two vehicles stop, a truck to put our bikes in and an SUV to carry us. As we passed through the 1.1 mile long tunnel, brief window glimpses took our breath away until we reached the exit and a stunning view, better than Capitol Reef or Bryce was presented. We looked in awe at rampart red rock walls towering above. We agreed to spend extra time here to take it all in.

Day 43 - Rest Day in Bicknell, Utah

A rare occasion today, Thomas and I have stayed two nights in the same town. After another long stretch of cycling, we've taken a full day of rest. With its Post Office, two motels and a restaurant I knew there was no way I could relax in town, so I went for a relaxing solo trail ride. The Great Western ATV Trail follows Velvet ridge between Torrey, the next town to the south-east and our current location of Bicknell. The trail wasn't smooth and the cyclocross bike I ride lacks any suspension, but the technical challenge and awe inspiring landscape made for a worthwhile ride. Again today the weather was perfect with no clouds and a cool wind to keep the temperature pleasant.
We've truly crossed the threshold from the American Northwest into the Southwest. Today I was mesmerized at numerous points along the ride. The views are beautiful and completely different from the desert of Alberta. The land is vibrant to such an extent that for the first time the flora is of no interest in comparison. I'm not even at the National Park, yet my jaded, bike-weary attitude has been renewed by spectacular sights.

Six weeks! Bicknell, Utah

Capitol Reef National Park lies to the south-east. We are truly in the desert and find ourselves surrounded by rolling hills and parched scrubby bushes. Camping last night proved why wool is a bad idea as I picked dozens of thorny seeds from my Canuck ensemble. The desert has shown itself first in the form of some isolated hoodoo's and the occasional mound of red dirt yesterday. Now we are surrounded by tall red sandstone cliffs and bone-dry farmers fields. Although the sun shone hotly throughout the day the high elevations passed kept us cool. The first summit at approximately 7300 feet fooled me into thinking the remainder of the day would be downhill. As the next uphill began I realized my mistake. At 8400 feet the thin air felt great upon seeing snow high up on a ridge. Once again I found myself surprised, simply from two mountain passes and the sight of snow, even though I know that surprises in a lifetime are continuous. Amazement never ceases.
A little research reveals that a train ride from Las Angeles to Seattle is only $150. It could be a good way to get back to Canada.

Day 40 - Nephi, Utah

Today the odometer on Thomas' bike computer reads 1622 miles, or 2610 kilometers. I'm happy to state this because for the first time Thomas and I saw a road sign displaying "Las Vegas 350 miles." It brightened the day for both of to think that we were so close after nearly six weeks. Of course we're not taking the shortest 350 mile route, the next three big features are Capitol Reef, Bryce and Zion National Parks.
For Thanksgiving Thomas and I free camped on the western shore of Utah Lake. I tried to cook a coconut curry meal good enough to send any thoughts of turkey awash, but it didn't cut the cake. However the fading light of the day on the mountains made for an enjoyable sunset. As the light went red Thomas and I joked about the nearby city of Provo. It is one of the larger communities in Utah and has one bar. The people there live for the book of Mormon. Earlier that day we went to temple square in Salt Lake City. Every street in the city is oriented upon the temple. It is the international headquarters for the church of Jesus Christ of latter day saints. The centre of Salt Lake City is exorbitant and of papal proportions.
On Saturday Thomas and I had been searching for a couch to crash on when we met Chaz at his place of employment, Carlucci's bakery. He invited us to stay at his place and join in a backyard party. Two bands, both good friends of Chaz, were coming through town that night and he had asked them to play a set. Another local solo artist and a third band made for a great evening of rock and pop music. Could we be any luckier? Yes dear reader, it was topped off by Chaz bringing home a garbage bag full of bread from his bakery and a scrambled egg breakfast with coffee.

Day 36 - Logan, Utah

Thomas and I have entered our fourth state on the tour.  From Bear Lake, Wyoming we utilized highway 89 to brush upon the south-eastern tip of Idaho before entering Utah enroute to Salt Lake City.  Logan Canyon was a very scenic stretch of highway right before Logan city.  It was very beautiful even though I am getting jaded from many days on the bicycle.  The canyon was imposingly steep and the visible rock looked as though there was potential for lots of climbing.  In the last few miles of canyon we hit the edge of a large strorm cell and were buffeted by strong winds before entering a torrential thundershower.  It had looked very ominous and long-lasting, but a dinner stop at a restaurant outlasted the bad weather.  After talking to some old americans at the bar in the dinner Thomas and I agreed that we had both perceived a change from the laconic style of Montana and Wyoming to an exaggeration upon small talk. 
  Tomorrow is David Broemeling's birthday, and becasue I know he is reading the blog I have to post:
Happy Birthday!

Day 34 - Afton, WY

Thomas booked an appointment at the local clinic yesterday to find out this morning that he has an upper respiratory throat infection. It fits with the symptoms he has had over the last few days; coughing, inflamed throat, runny nose and tired.
We will be doing short days until he is better, if any at all. Our next rest stop will be in Bear Lake. The weather is back to sunny today after a few showers yesterday. Both the eastern and western U.S. coastlines are being rained on, but things won't detiorate immediately. Hopefully the coming weekend won't be too wet.
We're off again...

Jackson

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We have had another wonderful couchsurf with our hostess Meggan in Jackson!
Time to hit the trail.

Day 31 - Jackson, Wyoming

Thomas and I arrived in Jackson yesterday afternoon right before the heat of the day rose to 80 F. (27 C.)
Before I say anything on experiencing the town and it's nightlife, I have to comment on the wonderful weather we have had this week.  The sky has been almost perfectly blue and unmarred by any significant clouds.  Only the occasional wisp of white has revealed itself before being dissolved by the glaring sun.  Have to go shopping for more sunscreen and some lip balm after this radiant week.
 As we have left the high elevations of Yellowstone Park and approached Jackson through Grand Teton National Park, the number of deciduous trees has jumped into a myriad of fall colours.  There were small patches of aspen as we traveled through Yellowstone showing a range of colour from the early yellow stages to blush red.  Once off of the high plateau of the Caldera region the surrounding forests seemed to explode around us with every leafy plant giving it's own display of yellow and red tones. My favorite views have been from bridges that cross over dry riverbeds where there are large trees growing on small islands and adding splashes of multifarious yellow to the grey rock.  At our last stop in the Signal Mountain Campground the ground cover around our site and throughout the area was wonderful, every plant showing it's own fade from green to yellow then red.
  Grand Teton National Park reminds me of Jasper National Park, but it has it's differences.  Our last crossing of the continental divide in Yellowstone brought us to an elevation just below eight-thousand feet.  Having climbed that high resulted in a coasting ride down to Grand Teton.  As Jackson lake came into view we glimpsed the mountain range that makes this park famous.  Craggy peaks and sheer rock walls dominated the western horizon and rolling hills to the east and south hemmed in a stunning valley.  With the number of fish we've seen in the rivers from the bridges I am regretful that I didn't allow space to pack a fishing kit to try my luck for a trout dinner.  The rivers and forest are teeming with life.  There is quite the contrast from the perceived fire and brimstone of Yellowstone to the rugged mountain splendour of Grand Teton.
  As we past by the largest peak, Grand Teton itself, the Jackson hole ski resort came into view just further south.  It looks good.  The runs were long, with the longest run at over one kilometre it would be a place to improve your riding very quickly.  
  Last night we went to the Snake River Brewpub and shortly before leaving had an amicable conversation with a retired cop and his wife from California.  They were so kind as to buy our dinner and drinks!  My bias against Americans is taking a beating as we continue to meet more and more nice people.
Cheers