Bicycle Tour Highlights

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Four Weeks - Grant Village, Yellowstone Lake

Happy Birthday Thomas! Sweet 21 and legal in all states!
We are celebrating the day by staying in a hotel, lounging on the beach when the temperature hits 74 F. (23 C.) and having beers at lunch. Yellowstone park has been full of surprises since our arrival.
The Boiling River is a Hydrothermal feature of great enjoyment. The Gardner river is warmed from it's cool temperature to various soaking temperatures, hottest at the spring mouth itself.
As Yellowstone National Park is quite high in elevation, it is usually snow-covered at this time of the year. We are lucky to enjoy a late summer, but nearly all the campgrounds have closed and many of the service providers have shut their doors for the season. It wouldn't be a problem if Thomas and I didn't need food to travel. The gas station mini-market will have to provide until Jackson, Wyoming.
Last night the Elk, which are in their heat, or rutting season, bugled constantly. Everyone here loves them, but Thomas and I are jaded to the beauty of Elk after having been raised in Jasper, the mountain town littered with Elk poo.

Monday, September 27, 2010

Day 25 - Chico Hot Springs

This evening Thomas and I are lodged at the Chico Hot Springs Resort. The hotel is over one hundred years old and endearing upon arrival because of the welcoming front staff and quaint lobby furnishings. Our reasonably priced room is over the front desk and down a hallway from the pools. Adjacent to the pool is the bar and as it is now last call (2a.m.) I can hear the last of the bar crowd dispersing. The resort is a very nice destination to spend a burning hot day cycling sixty miles to arrive at sunset. It was sunny and blue and scorching today. Shortly after leaving beautiful Bozeman Thomas and I applied sunscreen to each other's backs. We rode south and our patchy aplications were assailed throughout the day so that we now both have patchy right-hand side sunburns on our arms and torsos. In fact we were so weary after our first truly hot and cloudless day that I have some apprehension about the deserts lying to the south. One option is to do the brunt of our riding in the hours directly following sunrise, taking a siesta during the heat of the day.
Last night we were welcomed into the home of the three nicest and most open-minded people in Bozeman. Jessa, Sean and Jenna made Thomas and I feel welcomed into the hobbit-doored home they live in. We met Jessa and Jenna by coincidence at the Bozeman Hot Springs at a time when morale was low between my brother and I. We had arrived too late to go soaking and were arguing to find a course of action when Jessa approached us to ask if we were lost. Almost immediately we were invited to stay with the sisters after they finished their workday of nannying. We were told that they were part of the couchsurfing community and so it was to be Thomas' first couchsurfing experience: What a wonderful group to be accommodated by! Now Thomas is excited to couchsurf again, probably after his 21st birthday in Jackson, Wyoming. Thank you Jenna and Jessa for showing him the open hospitality that makes couchsurfing work. Thomas had been apprehensive about couchsurfing before Bozeman, MT and is now a changed man by a small group in a liberal city. Maybe the couchsurfing.org website will become the favorite way to travel for both of us in the future, a possibility that I am very excited about.

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Yellowstone

So today we entered yellowstone through the north entrance and it is hot! We started this morning at chicho hot spring resort and biked through massive head winds that caused us to take twice as long as we should have to reach boiling river hot springs 37 miles away( go if you ever have the chance you literally sit where the spring and the river meet and it is glorious!) Although I should add that both of us had mild heat exhaustion from the day before biking in sweltering heat in the afternoon sun.
One of my fears for this trip was that we started too late in the season and we would get snowed out. Now we are finding that it is just fricken hot to be biking 60 miles a day. It is so hot that I look like a salmon, my right side is pink where I did not apply sun screen. shamus's whale is now a pink killer whale. So what Shamus and I have resolved to do is bike 10 to 29 mile days while we get climatized over the next 4 days. Hopefully that will happen soon because it is just going to get hotter the further south we go!
Oh and we will post pics some time soon.

Thomas

Day 23 - Toston Dam Campsite

After leaving Helena my brother and I rode south to a wonderful campsite. It was one of many historical points of interest along the Lewis and Clark expedition route. We walked across the Toston Hydro-Electric Dam itself to access the far bank of the Missouri River. Half a mile downstream along the north-flowing river and parallel railway was a spring that flows underneath the tracks through two of the clearest bodies of water seen yet. A cerulean water colour contrasted wonderfully with the dark-green algae and neon-green leafy marine-plants. The aquarium appearance was completed with the prescence of a school of small fishes darting and flitting about the spring-pool. After filling the water bottles we headed back to camp in the twilight. On the dam, less than a hundred meters from cooking a delicious pasta dinner, I stopped dead in my tracks causing Thomas to nearly walk into me. I might not have been very magnanimous had he pushed me onto the snake I had stopped to stare at. When a rock was rolled onto the snake it instantly bunched into a coil and hissed a fang-bearing warning while rattling it's tail. We had encountered our first rattlesnake! When the rattle was first audible Thomas and I both jumped back, but there wasn't an easy way to walk around as the snake sat in the middle of the narrowest point on the Dam. A concrete wall to the left and chainlink fence didn't leave much for options but we scaled the wall and passed around the snake, constantly being watched by beady eyes.
Back at camp shortly after we cooked while a full moon rose over the nearby bluffs. An owl hooted throughout the bright and beautiful night while we lay near the calm water upstream of the dam. An idyllic camp teeming with wildlife.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Day 22 - Good Morning from Helena. Today we are biking towards Wyoming

Hi Everyone!
The grey skies cleared last night to reveal a dazzling full moon. The weather is much improved today, with sunshine beaming into the motel. We have yet to pack up our trailers and visit the grocery store before departing the very aesthetic capital city. The anticipation of getting on the road again is disrupting my sleeping. Without a full day of riding I have too much energy and anxiety to get a full night's rest. Thomas had trouble falling asleep last night but has no problem remaining asleep this morn.
As his birthday is on Wednesday, September 29th I would like to invite any Skype users to call and wish him a Happy Birthday (if we are in an area that has Internet).
Search our skype username: Shamus & Thomas Broemeling
Thanks and have a great day.

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Three Weeks! The capital of Montana is Helena!

Hello Dear Reader;
Today, the 22nd of September, is the second day of our visit to Helena. Yesterday Thomas and I awoke in our frosty tents at a campground near McDonald pass. We were both suffering after three consecutive 60-mile days. To express our exhaustion to one another we were both pushing each others buttons. Thomas sang numerous songs and I moaned especially to 'drunken sailor'. I lost the competition of who could lay in their tent longer and got up to get further away from Thomas. He was not actually interested in sleeping in, only in asserting himself once again in being more capable of staying in his sleeping bag longer than I can stand to. Unfortunately for him, I was ready and maliciously waiting with an open water bottle when his head came poking out of the tent. With his bleary eyes on the ground he had no chance to see the chilled water splash onto his scalp, but the resulting outcry sent me on a solitary morning stroll.
Later that morning I expelled the unusable dregs of stove gas into the firepit and lit it due to some dirt that had fallen into the fuel bottle. To avoid clogging the pump I felt it was justifiable to waste the small amount of gas in the bottle. As most boys are pyromaniacs, Thomas and I kept the fireball rollin' and first soaked a rag in gas from his fuel bottle. Then Thomas started pouring the gas directly into the firepit from his bottle, making sure to avoid the open flame. I warned him of the danger he was playing with. Taking no heed, Thomas continued to pour gas on the fire until the inevitable happened. Yes, dear reader, flame leapt up the stream of gas and Tommy boy jerked the bottle away, dousing my nearby bike trailer and hung-out-to-dry socks in gas. The flames leapt along and I turned from packing up breakfast, at hearing his squawk, to watch him frantically blowing out the flames. I was already one-up so it was easy laugh at the situation, but I will never douse Thomas again for fear of getting burnt.
I keep trying to think of something meaningful to say that will have an impact on the lives of others, but the only thing congruent with the blog is that humor is like beauty, it's all within the eye of the beholder.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Day 17 - Swan Lake, Montana

We have departed Kalispell and the luxuries of a grand hotel this Saturday. So much for a frugal and Spartan journey enroute to Las Vegas. As we pulled taut the last strap and mounted our steeds a parade of the regional Shriners society proceeded to block our exit on Main street. Go-karts, Quads, convertibles, an organ towed on a trailer and silly bucket hats with tassels. Yes, seniors from Montana sure know how to have a good time. Too bad a society dedicated to enriching children's lives made them look like boys. Everyone can be young at heart. Last night I went to check out the only nightclub in Kalispell and after walking away in disgust at the foam party theme stumbled upon Salsa dancing in the adjacent hall of the same building. I took tips from anyone who would give them to me and finally found a groove I could enjoy in Montana. The weather is cool but not nearly so cold as Canada's. We should be feeling a significant change over the coming weeks.
Everybody seems to think I have a strange accent, but relatively few Americans guess Canadian first. With the name Shamus, obviously some guess Irish, but Australian or Scottish or British?
Well, I apologize for the lack of pictures. Keep checking for a gallery of Thomas to be posted soon;)

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Thomas rant

So the park was beautiful as Shamus said the only words I have to add are
1. It sucks being a minor again! Now that I can't have a beer I really really want one thank god I have to wait only 13 more days!
2. There are some crazy signs here in Montana " I am very paticular of who I let in heaven" - god. I mean who actually quotes god?
3. Dammit I want a beer
4. Passport, I am actually happy it got destroyed since it caused Shamus and I to go through glacier park the right way through beautiful weather and an amazing down hill racing around tight corners and speeding past red retro tourist cars! Highlight of the trip so far!
Right now we are staying in the kalispell grand hotel! It was the only place that is good enough for the bro bros!

Thomas

*edit* 5. A&W does not have a teen burger in America what the hell when did the burger family get divorced! I was so hurt about not being able to get a teen burger that I will not got to A&W till I'm back in Canada!

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Day 14 - West Glacier, Montana

Hey!
The border crossing at Chief Mountain went as well as can be expected. I would like to tell you why I was denied access into the states in 2007. First and foremost, never approach a border crossing on foot with a massive backpack. Second, carry at least $100 U.S. cash and prove with a bank receipt that you have whatever funds are necessary to ensure you do not go broke on your trip. Third, regardless of your employment status, do not say you are unemployed or looking for a job. Lastly, and most obvious of all, be courteous to the border official so that they do not need to use their discretion. At this recent crossing, unlike the last, I brought the necessary papers and attitude. Regardless, they are just trying to nail you down.
That being said the "going to the sun" road in Glacier National Park was by far one the best rides I have ever done. To simply enjoy the longest (12 miles at 6%) downhill you have ever experienced get shuttled to Logan Pass and proceed west. I laughed more today coming down than the day I rode down the Cavell road (very steep, multiple hairpin corners) after it had been newly paved. Being able to look down from a 2000 meter pass and see the road below on the valley bottom makes one gleeful when on a bike.
If any of you wonder how we do the riding without painful chafing my only answer is short days with lots of rest days.
Well that's all for the latest highlights, I won't bore anyone with the menial stuff. Here's to truckin' in the U.S.A.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Day 13 - Pincher Creek

Hello Everybody!
Tomorrow marks the second week of the bicycle tour.
Thomas and I have accommodation in the blue mountain
motel to avoid a wet night outside. After doing some
big days, we are both rundown and Thomas has had some
cold symptoms. On Saturday, after picking up a new passport the day before, we set a benchmark for the trip by utilizing a tailwind to bike 100 km. Today we are within a day ride of the border. With the current weather looking awful and speculations of snow on Thursday we maybe avoiding Glacier National Park and the "going to the sun highway."
Last night we met Dave Saganiuk, an old friend of our parents. He agreed to meet us for a drink and even said it was a shame that we hadn't called him upon arrival as he not only would have put us up but could have even put us to work for an afternoon. Sitting at a nearby lounge he told us a few stories we had heard from our mother before, but the new perspective was hilarious.
Today we will find out if the border is passable or not.
Regards
Shamus

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Day 8 - Calgary

The passport application has been completed with urgent status and should be ready for pick-up tomorrow on Friday September 10.  Without any further obstacles the south-bound cycling should resume the following day.  Tonight the Bro. Bro's are staying with their cousin Conor who is also an awesome MacMillan host.  We went for dinner at Brewster's pub and Thomas has struck off on his own to enjoy a movie.  I spent the day riding my bike about Calgary and the freedom of not towing a trailer made shopping for new tires liberating.  The brand recommended by Al the mechanic at Freewheel, amongst other bike shop aficionados, was Schwalbe.  After burning through the bike tires that came with the original purchase I have made the choice to get the best available tires to aid in the prevention of  flats and more importantly last longer. 
With time to spend in Calgary tomorrow I would like to make a morning visit to the museum.
Thanks to all y'all who are keeping tabs on us :)

Day 7 - Cochrane

Thomas and I arrived at the McMillan household early. When it started to pour rain an hour after arrival we were grateful to our Aunt and Uncle for letting us crash at a time when we were in need of a rest after our first strenuous leg. Tension had arisen yesterday from Thomas expressing that he has been pushed too hard, while I feel the window of opportunity to cycle into the U.S.A. is rapidly closing with the snow looming.
We camped last night in the cold at the Ghost Resevoir Marina and Campground, where a slew of sailboats were stored on land for the coming winter.  Almost all of the watercraft were trailerable, with the most popular brand, Macgregor, dominating the prairie bound sailboats.  With the obvious deep freeze coming I am progressively more anxious to escape south.
 Our aunt Ruth Mary put everything into perspective when she said that the greatest challenge will be remaining committed to travelling together when we are most sick of each other.  In immediate memory the physical challenge of biking is nothing when compared to the stress of making a trip work with two individuals who are only good for each other in the balance achieved.

Monday, September 6, 2010

Day 5 - Canmore

We are making ourselves at home with the Lemieuxs. Thomas and I have both been generously hosted in a beautiful home backing onto cougar creek. Thank you Peter & Nancy.
The plans we make change as fast as they are made. Currently we scramble to find friends to stay with in Calgary on Wednesday when we plan to arrive.
Lake Louise is conveniently connected to Canmore by highway 1A and a new paved pathway. The only section of the TransCanada highway Thomas and I have had to bike on thus far is from the junction of highway 93 to Lake Louise. At no point on our journey to Calgary do we intend to ride on HWY 1. So we will stick to 1A and enjoy the slower pace.
Tomorrow we are heading for Ghost lake on HWY 1A. WoOOoo...sounds creepy.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Day 1,
I got beer
Day 2,
I sat by a beautiful creek
Day 3,
I learnt how to play yaniv (Israeli card game)
Day 4,
Clean underwear!!!

Thomas

Day 4 - Lake Louise

Questions? I'm sure there are many. Thomas and I arrived mid-afternoon in Lake Louise after another great day of riding. Cycling is truly the best way to travel by land. On day one we stayed at Honeymoon lake and it was very bromantic. Roy, our dad, delivered a derailleur hanger after I foolishly broke the original by levering the bob trailer on it at camp. Our parents love us so much he came bearing cookies and beer from home! On day two we tackled the Tangle falls hill and camped at Wilcox Creek campground. I turned from cleaning my bike at the campsite when asked "How far are you going?". To my surprise it was Peter Lemieux! Mr. Icewalk himself! I will never forget being an elementary school student on a field trip with him. If you haven't taken the tour yet check out his availability @ icewalks.com. He was accompanied by his wife Nancy and son David. Peter and Nancy had both toured on bicycle extensively and were quick to offer their home in Canmore for us to crash in. Thank you Lemieuxs. On day three we arrived at Waterfowl Lake campground where we crossed paths with Sam and his wife Heather. They had just arrived to visit and camp with Sam's in-laws. What a nice coincidence it was to run into them again after having said goodbye. Canmore and our biggest day of riding all tomorrow!

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Found it!


We found the passport! After looking for it for the whole day and ripping apart the house and car several times we received a call from my roommate Melissa. She had found my passport across the street by the dumpster while walking Mina (her dog). These are all the pieces that she found and I am going to have to get a new passport in cranbrook on our way to the border. Tomorrow we will be on the road putting kilometers behind us.

Thomas

p.s. What I am really happy about is that my brother and i didn't have to go through a dumpster this time to find my passport.

Day 1 -

Today is a write-off due to organizational issues.  Distance traveled from Jasper: Zero!
While moving his possessions into storage, Thomas has inadvertently lost his passport and cannot find it anywhere among any of his belongings, including the bicycle tour gear.  The time now is 3:50p.m. and the window for departing today is a slim crack.  Without finding the passport this evening we will be forced to report it lost and apply for a new one in person at an office in Cranbrook.  It was definitely seen by both Dad and Thomas during the moving out, but no-one has seen it anywhere at the family home.  Everything has been searched twice and morale is low, even though it has been missing for just 24 hours.
I'm not quite sure yet how well I've handled this, but being irate seems entirely justifiable.   I haven't made this statement publicly;  I loathe searching for hard-to-find-objects in my parent's cluttered, over-flowing, untidy, disorganized, messy home.  Whatever character building I'm getting out of this, I don't want it.  Please excuse me while I proceed to triple check the cluttered family home for a missing passport.  

P.S. Today's quote is "F.M.L!"